_ 121 _ we had, merchants and muleteers alike. I hid my papers in the saddle-bag of a small ass, in which were the various trifles and saddle-blankets of the beasts. If they had found them, I should have been at risk. From here we went to put up at a caravanserai. This city, which the Turk captured from the Sophy, is the capital of this region. It is on a hill to the north [of the road] and is encircled by a strong wall with a stone barbican. The walls are high and broad, with fine, tall towers. Everything is new and in good repair. Formerly it was called Amida. The houses are built in wattle and daub, and the streets are narrow and dirty. It has four gates in use, above which are fine, tall towers, where there are always Turks defending it with weapons and muskets; and they are closed every night. No merchant or foreigner may leave without a note from the Pasha, and anyone without one is held until it is known who he is. There are many small huts along the walls to shelter the guards and watchmen. It is very fertile and there is a great deal of trade and much business. In one part of the city there arises a spring which flows across it and drives many mills.
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