_ 302 _ They always live in hills and ranges of mountains. As they are obedient to the Turk, they are very well treated by him and held in great esteem. In their castles and fortresses they will only accept captains of their own people. Formerly they were lords of all this part of Armenia, which they conquered and took by force. Of their origin and where they came from no one could tell me more than that they are a very ancient people and conquered these parts many years ago. They have the custom of wearing turbans dyed very bright red so that they will be recognised. The rest of what they wear is like that of other Moors. The Armenians and Christians of any caste wear them turbans dyed blue and other colours, for they cannot wear white ones. Only Turks and Moors can do so. If they find one a Christian wearing a white turban, he is severely punished. The Jews, throughout the lands of the Turks where they exist, wear them in order to be recognised dyed yellow or saffron. We spent that night in this caravanserai. We intended to leave on the next day in the morning although our animals were tired from the two previous days, but so much snow had fallen that we could not see the road, and it was not possible. We were obliged to spend the whole day there. On the next day, which was Wednesday 5th
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